The
taste for sweetness has results we are all aware of, most dramatically, the
alarming rise of diabetes in modern populations. But there is a subtler effect
and that is partly the subject of Jo Robinson’s 2013 book, Eating on the Wild Side. There, she points out that since many
beneficial bionutrients have a “sour, astringent, or bitter taste,” the modern
practice of favoring and cultivating “the sweetest and mildest-tasting wild
plants” has resulted in “a dramatic loss in phytonutrients” (Intro, 10). From
there, she goes on to point out in chapter and verse how the modern preference,
especially in America, for bland vegetables like beans and peas, leaves most
people deficient in the very nutrients that can help ward off diseases like
cancer. And she gives us the latest information about what those beneficial
phytonutrients are, in which vegetables they can be found, and how best to
prepare those vegetables and spices to reap the most health-giving nutrition
from them.
Her first rule is a simple one: “we should shop
by color, selecting varieties that are red orange, purple, dark green, and
yellow” (14). In other words, instead of buying iceberg lettuce (the favorite
lettuce variety for Americans), the wise consumer should buy darker varieties
and variants like dandelion greens (to the horror of our white neighbors, my
great aunt used to pick dandelion greens from lawns and lots in our
neighborhood, and use them either in salads or cooked with beans). Why? Because
dark green dandelion greens have eight times (8X) more antioxidants, twice as
much calcium, three times more vitamin A, and five times more vitamin K than
even that allegedly super-vegetable, spinach. The dark green color, as well as
red, purple and red-brown are tipoffs to the presence of anthocyanins—powerful antioxidants that protect the body from free
radicals. And what’s wrong with free radicals? These rogue elements—brought to
us by stress, excessive sunlight, and aging—are heavily implicated in damaging
cells, DNA, and the collagen that literally holds our bodies together, not to
mention their role in cancer. So even at a cursory glance, any plant with
anthocyanins would appear to be a benefactor of humankind. And yet, the average
American diet is mostly deficient in such vegetables and seems to prefer the bland
and beautiful: iceberg lettuce, peas and string beans, and white potatoes (re:
potatoes, Robinson points out that Peruvian purple potatoes have twenty-eight
(28X) more bionutrients than Russet potatoes, and one-hundred sixty-six (166X)
more than white potatoes. They are also high in anthocyanins, and sport a far
lower glycemic (sugar) index, meaning they are far less likely to lead to
diabetes than our modern varieties).
As to that other staple of modern agriculture,
corn, Robinson’s story of how modern corn was developed is hair-raising. It
turns out that in 1946 corn seeds were experimentally exposed to the early
atomic bombs at Bikini atoll. There was even a paper written in 1951, on the
“Effects of Atomic Bomb Explosion on Corn Seeds.” The paper points out that most
seeds thus radiated became “shriveled mutants.” But some were turned into our
modern food supply: “Our modern supersweet corn came out of this collection of
misbegotten seeds” (81). That is, a geneticist, John Laughnan, working with
these shrunken seeds (he labeled them “shrunken-2 or sh2”), found that a couple
of the samples he tried had become very SWEET—in fact, ten times (10X) sweeter
than the average corn of that time. Not only that, the mutant sweet corn stayed
fresh for ten days and more, unlike regular corn that turns to starch in that
time, and hence needs to be eaten fresh. Perfect! With a little breeding to
increase the starch content so it could breed, Laughnan had his brave new corn,
marketed as Illini Xtra-Sweet. The
result, after more tweaking, led to today’s corn, our supermarket corn, the
direct result of that sweet atomic bomb mutation. Of course, it lacks the
bionutrients of the original deep yellow corn, which boasts fifty-eight (58X)
times more beta carotene and lutein and zeaxanthin—but who cares? It’s sweet
taste matches Americans’ preferences, and lasts on the shelf for oh so long.
Besides all its information on which plants are
the most healthful, Robinson’s book has one more virtue that is invaluable: it
tells us how to prepare these beneficial plants to get the maximum benefit from
them. This took even me by surprise. I’ve been using garlic liberally for
years. But I never knew about how to maximize the active ingredient in garlic, allicin. Folklore calls garlic the
peasant’s penicillin, but allicin really does have powerful antibiotic effects.
According to Robinson, a milligram of allicin is equal to 15 international
units of penicillin, which means that three cloves (each clove has seven to
thirteen mg of allicin) have “the same antibacterial activity as a standard
dose of penicillin” (49). Garlic has even been found to block the formation of
some cancers. It’s an antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral, anticlotting
wonder.
BUT…you have to prepare it correctly. It turns
out that allicin is not actually contained in raw garlic; its ingredients—aliin
and alliinase—are, but they’re isolated in the clove. In order to get them
together, you have to slice or press or chew garlic to blend them to form allicin.
But there’s another but—and this is
what I never knew. If you are going to heat garlic, as in sauteeing it in oil,
you don’t do it right after chopping or pressing the garlic. Heat destroys the
enzyme (alliinase) needed to cause the blending reaction. So you need to keep
the chopped garlic aside for at least 10 minutes, and then the heating doesn’t
matter; chopped and/or mashed, it’s already blended to form the allicin, so
that blessed nutrient remains intact and usable.
This one bit of biochemical information seems
to me worth the price of the book as a whole. And that deserves saying again.
Traditional cooking in cultures like the one I grew up in have ‘known’ and
passed on such information in their cuisines. But they didn’t know exactly why
they did what they did and ate what they ate. It was traditional, the result of
long trial and error that becomes a cultural demand. With the advances in
biochemisty of recent years, however, we now know the why: why darker
vegetables are better, why traditional growing practices are better, why
garlic, despite its odor on the breath, is a boon to humanity. And that’s what
Jo Robinson gives us in this book: the biochemical basis for traditional
farming and cooking practices, and the biochemical reasons for the deficiencies
and diseases of modern eating/farming practices with their results in the human
body.
So eat all those veggies your mother told you
were good for you: crucifers (cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale,
broccoli, brussels sprouts, radishes, turnips), now knowing that along with
their slightly bitter taste come glucosinolates,
rich in antioxidants, and, in broccoli, sulforaphanes,
an anti-cancer agent. And red cabbage because it has six times (6X) more
antioxidants than the green variety. And blueberries—though the smaller ones
the farmers never pick have the most anthocyanins—are very nearly as good
frozen as fresh, and more than that, pick up antioxidant power when they are
cooked.
Speaking of which, there’s one more gem here.
Our modern tomatoes (see my blog “Tomatoland”) have been bred with a mutant
gene designed to make them ripen uniformly (which is done by exposing picked green
tomatoes to ethylene gas). The only problem is that this mutant gene has lowered
the lycopene content in tomatoes, and
lycopene is the beneficial antioxidant (good for prostate cancer) in tomatoes.
One way around this is to grow your own. And cherry tomatoes are the most
nutritious variety. What’s unexpected, though, is the following: it turns out
that cooking tomatoes makes them more
nutritious (did the residents of Naples know this when tomatoes first came to
them from the New World?) This means that a good tomato sauce is richer in
lycopenes than raw tomatoes in a salad. It also means that processed
tomatoes—canned or prepared as tomato paste—are also richer in lycopene,
because they’re cooked in processing, and heat increases the bioavailable lycopene,
by as much as ten times (10X). Amazing. I’ve been eating tomato sauce my whole
life, and never knew this.
That’s what Jo Robinson’s book can do for you.
It can give you information about what you currently eat, and steer you in
directions you never would have suspected. And these days, with so much fake
food being pushed on us, that is a gift no one can afford to overlook.
Lawrence
DiStasi